Zombie Meerkat

The ATtiny24 side of the project is just the bare minimum to get the chip going. It consists of a 10k pull-up resistor for the RESET line, the ISP header for programming and a 100nF capacitor on the supply lines. Adding some more capacitance with an electrolytic capacitor doesn't hurt. The LED driver chip would benefit from some capacitance on its supply lines as well. It shares some I/O lines on the ATtiny24 with the ISP header. The common anode RGB LED connects directly to 5V and the individual cathodes go into the chip. A 500R potentiometer is used to adjust the current output of the driver. The 294R resistor limits the maximum current. I assume you have blank chip running on the internal RC oscillator, no external quartz needed. The FUSE settings for running at 8MHz can be found in the code zip-file ('flash.sh').

Get some decent solid core wire for the connections on the perfboard. If you have a choice, make sure the insulation doesn't melt too easily. Take a look at the datasheets of both the ATtiny24 and the MBI5168 chips and try to arrange them on the perfboard optimally. If you have differently colored wire use it. Start with the ATtiny24 side, add the ISP header, 10k resistor and the 2 red LEDs (use long wires, so you can move them to where the eyes are) and power connections. Use an ISP programmer (e.g. usbtiny) to verify the chip is alive. ( avrdude -c usbtiny -p attiny24 -vvvvv ). You shouldn't get any error messages. Once that is verified to work, add the RGB LED and the driver chip + resistor + potentiometer. Take your time. Use hot-glue liberally to attach everything to the sculpture. Ideally you would use 3 AA cells to power the board, it will suck them dry ;-) If you have a 'mintyboost', giving you a nice 5V, use that!

Place it in a dark spot and let it blink!